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On June 25, 1977 a memo was sent out over law enforcement channels – a Thoroughbred foal in foal was stolen from Paris Kentucky. “Description of mare: 10 years old, bay color, tattoo inside upper lip ‘W12997′, white star center forehead, left and factual rear ankles have white stockings, murky spots on both rear coronets, 16 hands high. Wearing brown leather halter.” This wasn’t just any mare – she was a daughter of Northern Dancer, two months bred to Secretariat; taken from one of the most noted farms in the world. Her name was Fanfreluche, and she was champion three year old-fashioned filly in 1970 as well as Canadian Horse Of The Year. Less than a month passed and an arrest was made, but the mare was still missing. Near the Kentucky-Tennessee line a couple with three acres and a few horses found a bay mare in the road with rope burns on her neck and ankles. Completely unaware she was the most wanted horse in Kentucky, the people took her in and waited for someone to come looking for her. In December the champion mare was recovered and returned to the farm. 30 years later there are still unanswered questions.

Another renowned disappearing horse – who has never been truly confirmed alive or dead – is Shergar. In February 1983 Shergar was stolen from a farm in Ireland at gunpoint. Shergar was an immensely common stallion – many would know him on sight. He was never again seen alive but his body has never been found either.

Two vastly different endings to something we’d rather not think of – if these horses, in world famous stables, can disappear what about our horse grazing in the field? Thousands of horses have disappeared. A champion Appaloosa reining horse was stolen and later recovered. The key thing for Fanfreluche – specific no question description. Photographs. Identification. Fast action and persisting even to little three acre farms with a few horses, which is where she was found months later.

So often because we don’t want to think about it we don’t do anything about it. That’s a dangerous gamble! Having quick access to vital information makes a huge disagreement.

Of course prevention is key. A few ideas – don’t leave halters on horses. That little bit of time might be enough to deter a thief, especially those who strike on busier roads. It’s easy to snap a rope on and go. Pay attention when something is out of area. Have a failproof identifying factor on the horse – tattoos can fade but are better than nothing. Freeze branding on the neck, shoulder or rear quarter stands out especially on dark colored horses. If it’s a show horse some resolve to brand on the back or over the ribs, where it’s covered when he’s saddled and in competition but yet clearly visible when in a field or a sale ring! If you have him branded you’ll probably need to impress that on registration papers – which is documentation. And if you do a farm brand and an individual brand make sure your farm brand is listed with the state – when they leer a horse matching him they can easily call you.

On a monthly basis take pictures of your horse. Say the first of each month – snap a few pictures of both sides. Have pictures of unusual markings and for breeds like Appaloosas that can sometimes change from winter to summer having pictures that are new as well as what they’re like with the other coat can be key. I had a POA once that looked completely different in winter than in summer – and sometimes duns or buckskins or greys do also. Longer hair can make dun factor points less visible. Have easily accessible a complete Coggins – noting scars and markings. These papers and photos should be kept together in a file where you can quickly lay hands on it. There’s a big difference in “this was taken 2 weeks before disappearing” and “well this was taken last winter but he’s lost weight and his summer coat is different.”

Note any odd vehicles hanging around and encourage neighbors to do the same. If you sell horses never Purchase that buyers are there solely to look at a horse – most are but unethical people can very easily pose as buyers to salvage a look at not only your place but what’s normal. There’s a dog but he isn’t a threat because he’s nearly blind; there’s locks on the tack room but she got the key over the door sill; the horses are turned out at 9 before she goes to work then brought in at 530 when she comes home. You’ve given the thief a blueprint. He knows the dog is a non-issue. He knows where you keep the key to equipment and he knows from 9 to 530 he has all day to accept the horse and whatever equipment he can load – and because he’s already been there it may not look comic to show up with a trailer claiming to have bought something that in fact he never bought. There are thieves that bold – indeed just a few months ago a neighbor stopped a trio with a large horse trailer from entering a South Carolina miniature horse farm that had horses for sale. It sounded suspicious so she called authorities…the thieves got away but not with any horses – and with a large trailer they could have gotten the entire herd and been gone.

NEVER NEVER NEVER give your address or phone number on your website. With so many horses for sale and online promotions it’s easy to forget safety – but again with just a little information you can lose everything. Even unprejudiced a phone number – with a reverse look up they have your address. Tech savvy people can catch out a whole lot more information that you probably would rather them not know.

Have motion cameras area on your gates and doorways to the barns. These take a photo when motion triggers it…if you set it to catch impartial the motion outside the fence at 5′ high for example chances are if someone does get to your gates you have a chance to get a photo of them. Many cameras anymore are incredibly discreet and they’ll never know they were busted. When you have a photo of someone walking out of the pasture with your horse it’s pretty hard for them to say they weren’t there and are innocent!

Don’t ever give away security codes – while this may seem certain it’s easy to give it to the farrier because you’ll be gone Tuesday; then the stable hand gives it to someone else to meet them there and pretty soon you don’t know who has access to those codes. Changing them regularly isn’t a bad idea also. Don’t leave keys in vehicles. Use secure locks on gates. On a weekly basis stride (or ride) pasture fences – and make any repairs needed. If a deer knocks a wire down it’s too easy to say “I’ll do it next month” – compose a sign of it and do monthly maintenance. A weak spot may turn simply a horse who got out into a missing horse – hey the horse was found wandering. Not everyone is honest when such things happen.

If a horse does come up missing you have all descriptions and photos…print up some fliers immediately. Form a report with the sheriff’s department (and if you obtain a gate open etc don’t change anything – it’s evidence and can provide authorities with clues). Contact auctions – not just horse auctions but anywhere with a weekly livestock auction. Contact veterinarians and horse dealers/trainers. The more people looking the better. The App mare was found at an auction in Texas not too terribly far from where she was missing from – one person recognized her from a flier and ‘bought’ her – when the man showed up for his check he was caught. Aside from these things go to netposse.com – this is an interlinked database with missing horses from all over. It pays to browse this site regularly – you may be the one who finds and helps return someone else’s missing horse. Authorities can’t be everywhere – but if that horse in the pasture that a neighbor “bought” last week looks identical to the one reported missing say something. It may get a horse home safely.

Sadly sometimes horses are opinion to be taken that aren’t – including the heartbreaking myth of a horse who was reported stolen and had fallen into an old well. Don’t overlook the obvious. While it’s often easy to jump to conclusions don’t – look facts and let them swear the story.

If your horse is stolen and you have police reports, fliers, you’ve put him on netposse – don’t overlook free internet boards and lists. If he’s a ten year old paint you may not see him – but someone looking for a nine year old trail horse might see him on a horse sale site online, and remember your post. The more people looking the better! Have clear, accurate descriptions and photos leaves no room for interpretation. And remember even with experts sometimes it’s hard to tell a bay quarter horse from a dark bay/brown TB – a hunt seat competitor can look very much the same and be the same horse…that’s where your current pictures come in. Don’t rely just on show photos either – the horse standing in the field won’t be perfectly groomed and posed.

Take precautions to keep your horses safe – but make preparations so that if they do get stolen you have a better chance of finding them.

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Best of all, your horse learns to enjoy, relax and bond with you. Coddling your horse during regular grooming sessions is therapeutic and strengthens your mutual bond.

Approach grooming as a pleasant task for both of you. If your horse is fidgety, do not fetch impatient with him, yank him around or yowl at him; and never hit him – make this time friendly. Grooming is the perfect time to be kind, calm and collected – let your horse fall in love with you!

It is during grooming time that you serve the horse to “step over,” “move up,” or “pick up.” Manners taught in an authoritative but calm affirm (using same words every time) translate into a gay horse and one that will not crowd or step on the groomer. Use the same commands, given clearly and calmly, each time you ask him to move. (It is the neatest thing when the horse holds up a foot even before he is asked to “pick up.”)

Always spend the same safe location for grooming. Halter him and cross tie him at this grooming state each time he is groomed.

1. Start with a curry brush, an oval-shaped rubber grooming tool with grooves. Use runt circular motions, applying steady, comforting pressure, starting at the top of the neck and working down and across his body, under his belly and shanks, briskly working in tight circles. Do not use the curry on his legs since there is minimal soft tissue and the curry’s pressure is hurtful on his bones and joints. Complete one side of his body and then curry the other side.

(If you prefer, curry and brush at the same time, using alternate strokes. This is a great time saving and effective method of grooming. To use curry and brush simultaneously, hold curry in one hand and a medium-bristle brush in the other, stroke first with the curry and follow over that stroke with the brush. Repeat curry and bristle-brush strokes over the entire horse; complete one side, then depart to the other side.)

2. Briskly stroke over the entire horse with a medium-bristled brush, starting at the neck. Complete brushing both sides of the horse. This effectively removes the loose dirt and hair that the curry brush lifts up from the conceal.

3. Put your attention to his head and face. Always use a small ultra-soft brush. Ease it over his face, avoiding the eyes. Design his head closer to you, and coo, fuss and talk nonsense to him as you do this – your horse will simply adore you! Consume a cloth to wipe around eyes, nostrils and mouth.

Before you finish the head, check for contemplate matter or drainage and wipe. Handle and stroke his ears for 30 seconds, checking that there are no foreign objects or biting insects. If done routinely, you will promote his trust and, more importantly, prevent head shying.

4. Brush his forelock and mane using a medium-bristle brush. If you are preserving every strand of hair in forelock and mane, then never brush. Use a wide tooth comb instead, being extremely careful NOT to pull or bolt at the hair.

5. Concentrate on his tail. If you are not concerned about tail length or some hair breakage, go ahead and brush the tail, using a medium-bristle brush. But if every hair is important, read The Stale Gray Mare’s follow up article on tail care.

6. Now is the best time to perceive closer at any cuts or bumps that you noticed during the curry and brushing session. Treat any cuts appropriately and apply salve as necessary.

7. Divert your attention to his legs and hooves. Run your hands down your horse’s legs to feel for swelling, bumps and knots.

8. Pick up each hoof in succession to remove out the soiled matter, noticing any cracks, abscesses or loose horse shoe nails. Cracks need to be taken care of quickly to prevent expansion and infection. Obviously, abscesses require immediate attention, possibly by your veterinarian.

If you notice a foul or excessive odor in any hoof, apply a thrush medicine liberally, especially on the frog.

9. Use a stiff-bristle hoof brush to briskly scrub the coronet band and outer hoof wall to promote blood flow. Twice a week, apply a hoof conditioner at the coronet band and top inch of the hoof. Once a week, treat the entire hoof with conditioner.

And 10. Almost done! – You’re now ready to use the finishing brush to give a final brushing over the horse’s coat and to give him the final “spit shine.” This will get off any remaining dust and lay the hairs down smoothly. Always use the brush in the hair growth direction. Apply coat shine spray, misting lightly starting at the top of the neck. Avoid overspray near eyes and ears. The final touch – take a plush towel and rub smoothly along hair growth.

You now have a horse that is shiny and sleek and relaxed. If you took your time and didn’t rush through this grooming session, and if you enjoyed this closeness with your horse, you will be relaxed as well. It’s a win-win for you and your horse!

Other helpful horse articles by The Old Gray Mare can be found on www.DressYourHorse.com.

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General Information

Little horses are not ponies. They are a a specialty breed designed to look like a horse only smaller. One of the registries is the AMHA, or American Miniature Horse Association, which requires the horses to be no taller than 34 inches at the withers. They come in a variety of colors, and it is preferred to have them resemble a scaled down version of a larger breed, such as Arabian, or Quarter Horse.

Selection for Purchasing

If you want a dinky for show, or breeding, it’s vital to acquire one that is registered, and from a present home. This will demonstrate the worth of your animal. Simply being registered does not mean a horse is good quality, it must be shown or, if young, come from parents with show records. Select one that is friendly, accepts its’ feet picked up, and ears touched. Have it walked and trotted for you so you can study its’ gait for signs of lameness. Miniatures often suffer from neglected feet, something you should check before purchasing your horse.

Make sure the horse you purchase is wonderful for your needs. If it is to be a childrens’ pet you will want to make clear it is quiet and calm. Do not purchase a stallion for a pet. As romantic as it sounds, stallions can be very aggressive. Geldings are often considered the best for pets, as mares can be moody. Foals are cute, but can grow up mean if not handled correctly.

If you are planning on spending a lot of money on your mini, make sure you get a veterinarian check done. Minis can often be purchased at auctions, the quality of which will vary greatly.

Housing

The housing required by miniatures is no different than that needed for the larger version, it just needs to be smaller. They require shelter from the heat and cold in temperature extremes, and should always have a shady place to go. They can be kept in a barn at night or in a pasture all the time, if it has shelter. If introduced properly they may be kept in pens with larger horses, the only worry being around feeding times. There have been some people who have kept the very small miniatures in their homes, although these animals cannot be fully house trained. Before keeping them in your house or yard you should check your local by-laws on keeping livestock.

Proper fencing is a must. Smaller minis can sneak out under fences made for larger animals. I would not recommend keeping more than three miniatures per acre of pasture. Like most “herd” animals they are happiest when kept with at least one friend.

Cramped horses can be kept with goats, and sheep, again, special care around feeding times is indispensable, to do sure the minis do not get any oats or grain (see Feeding and Care).

Feeding and Care

Itsy-bitsy Horses are prone to founder. They should not be given any oats or have too much access to lush grass. It may be necessary to keep your miniature in a poor quality pasture and feed him or her, hay during the summer rather than turning it loose on grass. Like all animals they require fresh water.

You may want to check to earn determined that you have a farrier willing to trim them, because their small feet, and improper height, make for a difficult time.

Miniatures can be wonderful and friendly or slightly spoiled and snotty. They are very smart, which leads them to learn bad behavior like being silly when its time to be caught. Make sure you are willing to spend a lot of time with your horse, as they are social creatures and thrive on attention.
Mineral blocks and salt licks are important.

Other

Miniatures are usually kept as merely as pets, but they are often trained to pull carts or for small children to ride (only on the bigger minis). Many people enjoy showing or breeding their miniature horses. Some people have found miniatures to be useful as therapy animals, for the elderly, disabled individuals, or even as guide animals for the blind.

Smaller miniatures should not be ridden, their backs are not made for it, and they will suffer especially in older age from being over-ridden when young.

Horses, even minis, are herd animals, they prefer to be with other horses. If you cannot have other horses, for sure provide your mini with a friend, a miniature donkey, llama, or even sheep.

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So you have finally achieved your dream of owning a horse and are waiting for him to arrive at your local stables for you. However you now have to wade through the confusion of accessorizing your horse. With so much that you need and so much horse gear available where do you start? This is a guide is aimed at showing you how to accessorize your horse. It is impossible to cover everything in this introductory how to accessorize your horse guide but it will get you started and made aware of the necessities.

How to accessorize a hores – how to guide for unusual horse owners
Tack
One of the biggest accessory expenses you will need to purchase for your horse is tack. Tack includes a saddle, bridle, bit, girth and possibly a martingale or breast plate. The saddle is the most expensive item of tack and a very important one. It is essential that you get a saddle that fits you and your horse correctly. Badly fitting saddles can lead to all kinds of unwanted problems. If you are unsure on how to fit a saddle seek the help on someone who is.

If you are on a budget you can save some money by buying a second hand saddle. A gargantuan advantage to a second hand saddle is that it will be broken in already, so no sores and discomfort! When you are picking out tack build sure to check the quality of the leather and craftsmanship. Paying a little extra for quality will be better in the in long term as your tack will last longer so long as you take top-notch care of it. You will also need a couple of saddle pads and possibly some special pads depending on the needs of your horse. Make sure to hold your saddle pads clean.

Grooming supplies
In this fragment of the how to accessorize a horse guide grooming supplies will be discussed. Every horse owner needs to have a safe grooming kit. You can store your supplies in a bucket or buy a special box designed specifically for storing your grooming supplies from your local tack shop. You will need to stock your grooming kit with three brushes one hard, one medium and one very soft. You will also need a round rubber curry comb, hoof buy, hoof dressing, well-organized towel, cut cream or spray, fly spray, mane and tail comb, mane pulling comb, sweat scraper, betadine for cleaning wounds, gauze pads and bandages.

Once you have keep together your grooming kit make sure to mark each item with your name or initials. This way if your items are misplaced it will be easier for someone to return them to you. It is also significant to regularly clean your grooming tools, otherwise they will build up with dirt and grim that will end up back on your horse.

Blankets
Depending on where you live you may need few or many blankets for your horse. In the blankets piece of this how to accessorize your horse guide you will be introduced to the different blanket types. One blanket every horse should have is a sheet. A sheet is a very lightweight blanket that is good for cool summer evenings and keeping your horse clean for horse shows. They also provide an under layer for heavier blankets.

The next blanket weight is medium. This acts as a good top layer for the fall and spring and middle layer for the winter. These medium weight blankets come in variety of materials, once of the best is wool. The next blanket level is a heavy weight. These are usually quilted and designed for cold winter weather. There are also special blankets for using on your horse when they are turned out in the field. These blankets are extra durable and designed to keep your horse dry and fairly clean.

There are also other blankets that every horse owner should own. These are a cooler, sweat sheet and fly sheet. It is a good idea to have one each of these types of blankets.

The items discussed in this introductory how to accessorize your horse guide should cover most of the essentials. The cost of these items varies greatly and it is good idea to shop around. Don’t be afraid to ask for help, as many of the items such as a saddle and blankets need to be fitted correctly. Thanks for reading this how to accessorize your horse guide and have fun getting all your new gear.

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History of Lake Compounce

In 1846, residents of Bristol, Connecticut got their first taste of an amusement park, and its been going continuously ever since. In fact, Lake Compounce Amusement Park is the oldest continuously in operation amusement park in the United States, and it is simply a gorgeous site to see. Upon entering the park, you are greeted with rich landscaping bursting in color, and a carousel horse that almost seems to come to life entirely on its own. The carousel was built in 1911 and features hand carved animals that now proudly hold its place in the National Register of Historic Places.

Lake Compounce was built using the lake’s surrounding astronomical terrain as a guideline for the amusement park’s theme, and their signature ride, the Boulderdash wooden roller coaster is composed one of the most popular coasters. When you ride the fastest and longest wooden roller coaster in the world, you not only get to enjoy a 115-foot drop, and 4,500 feet of track, you get to take in the scenic opinion of the mountain while racing along the lush trees in the park, and the Boulderdash features an 180 degree turn that drops and propels riders turning it into an extreme ride.

Rides

There are 44 plus rides at Lake Compounce, and it is the home of one of the most spectacular wooden coasters to date. The Boulderdash stands true to it’s name considering that you are careened through the side of a mountain filled with rocks. It has been dubbed the fastest, longest, and tallest wooden roller coaster on the east coast. It was also voted as the best wooden roller coaster in the World by the National Amusement Park Historical Association.

Thunder N Lightning is Lake Compounds newest thrill meander, and one of they’re most sought after rides as well. The screaming swings on Thunder N Lightning hold a multitude of passengers and catapults’ riders to heights of almost 100 feet at 60 miles per hour, with four Gs of force, making it an extreme thrill ride that dare devils can’t wait to venture onto.

The Zoomerang is another favorite for thrill seekers, and if you are looking for the ultimate scream factor, then gape no further then this steel coaster that hoists you 125 feet into the air. Then you are suspended for what feels like an eternity, only to plummet downward into an 180 degree spiraling loop, and honest when you think you have caught your breath you are again hurled into an even bigger loop that throws you into a 360-degree turn, but you’re not done yet, now its time to do it all again, but only this time it’s backwards. It is a ride that challenges your fears, but it runs extremely smooth.

This area is typically peaceful in the summer, but if all the excitement finds you getting a bit over heated then Lake Compounces 7 different water rides should find cooling off to be a bolt. In fact Mammoth Falls is a accepted of water lovers as this watery raft ride leaves you very little chance of staying dry, and it’s sitting in the middle of Splash Harbor which features a pirate ship, lighthouse, a dozen water slides, and a wave pool.

Special Events at Lake Compounce

Every October guests can enjoy the Haunted Graveyard which features the Temple of Gloom. Getting yourself lost in the swirling Vortex is only half of the fun, as you still have to compose it through the Werewolf Woods, and the eerie cornfield filled with creepy creatures of the night. The Haunted Graveyard opens at 5:00 from September 29th to October 31st, Friday, Saturday, and Sunday with the exception of the 31st.

Chances are high that you will run into that fat, lasagna loving cat Garfield as he is one of the many attractions at Lake Compounce. In fact Garfield and the gang are entertainers at the park, and people former and young love to be photographed with the orange and black fur ball as well as his canine side kick Odie.

Admission

Adults’ $32.95, this does not include the sky coaster or the Haunted Graveyard.

Children under 52″ tall are $23.95 for the junior ticket.

Senior Citizens 60 and older pay only $16.95.

Children three and younger are free.

Groups of at least 25 people to 99 people pay $18.00 per person during the week per ticket, and $20.00 on the weekend.